
Italian home cooking in a kitchen that’s probably smaller than your own
A cafe by day, Lillo in the Cobble Hill section of Brooklyn is easy to love. It doesn’t take reservations, so aspiring guests line up outside for shots at about a dozen and-a-half seats. After a brief, unofficial BYOB period was kiboshed, it’s a dry house. There is no bathroom. But the place and its friendly owner are so effortlessly charming that every plate of cacio e pepe, fettuccini with speck and zucchini, and whole branzino seems special.